TEWL in Cosmetics
Formulation

The demand to prevent skin changes due to the aging process has led to the development of innovative cosmetic products. The scaly and flaky appearance or the skin's xerosis occur in the absence or deficiency of water. Moisturization is crucial to maintain the skin soft, flexible, smooth, wrinkle-free, and preserve a youthful and beautiful appearance. Hydration is critical for the typical operation of the skin and its cells. Water levels mainly depend on the nature of the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the aging, and the destructive agents like the heat and the wind. The demand of consumers for new natural ingredients and scientific evidence for their efficacy has grown in the last years. Aloe barbadensis contains carbohydrate polymers (glucomannans), mucilage, fructose, acids (uronic acid, tannic acid), vitamins (A, C, E, D, B1, B2, B3), amino acids, and triterpenoids (lupeol, campesterol, cholesterol, β-sitosterol) that exert protective or disease-preventing effects.1 Traditionally, Aloe was used to treating skin injuries due to burning and swellings.1 Although many studies have been carried out; clinical evidence remains unclear. Therefore, further research needs to be done to verify the effectiveness of A. barbadensis in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Aloe barbadensis leaf extract as antiaging using advanced biophysical techniques to determine hydration of the epidermis and skin elasticity.

The epidermis has two different water levels, separated by the interface between the stratum granulosum (SG) and the stratum corneum (SC). Water present in the deeper epidermal layers goes upward to hydrate cells in the SC, and in part, it is lost by evaporation. Hydration of the upper skin layers decreases when the SC water is lost less quickly than that arrived from the skin's lower layers.2 Therefore, to evaluate, it is necessary to check the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the water content in the SC. Since water and lipid contents determine the viscous resistance against deformation, the skin's viscoelastic properties were verified with a Cutometer. Combining topical agents and dietary supplements results in a superior cosmetic benefit, as the problem is attacked from opposing sides. The nutricosmetics "beauty from within" market has expanded in recent years and will continue to grow in the coming years. It is considered the next frontier for improving skin health and beauty.

Plant-based beauty is getting a significant investment in the marketplace. Aloe barbadensis was used in dermo-cosmetic cream considering its use in traditional medicine (emollient and anti-inflammatory)6,7, in food preparation (beverages, yogurts, desserts), functional food with antioxidant and immune-modulatory preventive effects, and cosmetic products (suntan lotions, soaps, hand creams, cleansers, shampoos, and hair tonics, shaving preparations, makeup, and baby lotion).9 Future studies should investigate treatment with A. barbadensis supplement to verify the possible synergic effect of supplement and cream to prevent skin aging.

The polysaccharide-rich composition of Aloe Vera extracts, often used in cosmetic formulations, may impart moisturizing properties to the product. Innovaloe Aloe Vera Gel Concentrate demonstrated a reduction of 32.92% after 1 hour of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), which is associated with skin barrier improvement integrity. After 24 and 48 hours, the product did increase via TEWL but was not higher than the baseline.

After the tested product demonstrated an increase in electroconductivity of 44.79% via Novameter after 1 hour, the increase was confirmed to be effective in improving and maintaining moisturization. After 24 hours, the product was still higher than baseline, but after 48 hours, electroconductivity decreased by -0.97%.